Shito (Black Pepper Sauce)

Method

1. 1

   Blend the onion, garlic and ginger to a smooth paste.

2. 2

   Heat the oil in a heavy pot and fry the paste over medium heat, stirring often, until all its water cooks off and it turns deep golden-brown, about 10 minutes.

   💡 It spatters as the water cooks out — keep stirring and don't rush this stage, it builds the base flavor.

3. 3

   Stir in the tomato paste and fry 5 minutes more, until it darkens a shade and the oil starts to separate at the edges.

4. 4

   Add the ground dried shrimp and ground chili, stirring to coat everything in the hot oil.

5. 5

   Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring often so nothing catches on the bottom, about 40 minutes, as the sauce darkens from brick-red toward near-black.

   💡 Black, not burnt: low heat and patience. The color change is gradual until it isn't.

6. 6

   Taste and adjust the salt — shito should be assertively savory, since a little goes a long way on the plate.

7. 7

   Let it cool completely, then spoon into a clean jar under its own oil. It improves for a week and disappears within four.